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Mount Terror

At: Washington, United States
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About: Mount Terror is a mountain of the Cascade Range, located in the northwestern corner of Washington state in Whatcom County. Mt. Terror is contained within North Cascades National Park. Nearby mountains
  • Mount Triumph
  • Mount Despair
  • Mount Shuksan
  • Mount Blum
  • Mount Prophet
Photo: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1635&size=big&cat=&sort=1 Mount Terror is the highest peak of the Southern Picket Range. The Pickets, north and south, are considered the most Alpine region of the Cascades. Terror was first climbed in 1931 by William Degenhardt and Herbert Strandberg. Thirty years later Ed Cooper led the first ascent of the more challenging north face, as he recounts: One of the most enjoyable adventures of my life was the north-to-south traverse of the Southern Picket Range via the north face (buttress) of Mt. Terror in 1961. This trip had everything, including the legendary brush. I look back and realize how lightly we took the adventure, both figuratively and literally. Basically we carried day packs with bivouac gear and a minimum of food. …let’s see, we’ll just go up Stetattle Creek, climb up and over the Elephant Butte Saddle, traverse into the northern cirque wall of the Southern Pickets, traverse hanging glaciers to the base of Mount Terror, climb up and over Mount Terror, and then descend the southern side near Goodell Creek until we come out on the road near Newhalem. What could be simpler than that? Well, plenty, as we were about to discover.


Maria Ly
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